We have been working on getting the car ready. Thanks to delays in moving we are going to miss the first race, however are now looking at the CMS and VIR races. It’s a drive but not that bad (6 hours to VIR).
This brought up a good point, towing. This car is not taggable, nor do we want to pay for insurance, tag fees, ad valorem, etc. Enter the need for a tow rig. I (Rick) have a 99 F250 diesel that was originally bought as a DD and Jeep towing. It is a pure work truck with a winch on the front, tommy gate on the back and endless dents in the middle. It’s even white to add to the image.
The truck runs great other than the clutch, which lets the truck creep up a hill with the pedal on the floor and actually hurts to push down. I have worked around this for 2 years with a combination of clutchless shifting and not stopping unless absolutely necessary (I swear officer the clutch made me do it). It gets driven about twice a month, and I honestly have no idea when the last oil change was. Or so it was until last month when I needed to move and it got pressed into heavy service. The trucks response was a big middle finger for not showing it any love for a year and then beating the crap out of it.
First one of the tommy gate cables snapped. I partially blame operator error, but the cable was slight frayed. A visit to my new favorite website www.amazonsupply.com (formerly SmallParts.com) hooked me up with some Stainless 7/32 cable and ferrules. A couple Craigslist searches turned up a set of manual NicoPress crimpers. Combine these with a possible hernia and we have a working liftgate again.
Next the winch solenoid stopped allowing the cable to pull in, only spool out. Right at the same time my truck got stuck with a trailer in icy mud…. It’s a 10k HF winch, contacted Harbor Freight for a replacement. After finding that the replacement costs 30% the cost of a new one you can expect to see a tutorial on solenoid rebuilding soon…
Finally the truck started leaking diesel. After a week it started pouring diesel. After some flashlight work and research I discovered 2 common causes – orings or passenger side fuel line. Being paranoid and preferring the overkill route I did both. The parts were ordered from www.dieselorings.com. The fuel bowl was first, and Guzzle’s directions on the website are spot on perfect. Next was the fuel line, and that was a PITA. It runs from the left side of the fuel bowl under the turbo spider to the rear of the passenger side head where it connects to a fitting. There are 2 issues with this – first is that they used these things called “Parker fuel sleeves” that wear out after a while and are not available at most parts stores, second is a clamp under the turbo that vibrates and wears a hole in the steel line. I don’t have a good way to photograph the process but the basic method is:
- Remove Fuel Bowl – This is optional, however if this is leaking all the other fittings will soon, plus it makes everything else easier. You will need fuel sleeves for both heads, the inlet and outlet. If you buy the rebuild kit from Guzzle it has everything for about $20
- Follow the fuel line with your hand till you reach the clamp. Mine was already undone, but you may need to remove the nut from the mounting stud
- Reach behind the passenger head. The fitting will stick out at about a 45* angle toward the turbo. To remove it I would highly recommend using a short (3″) open end wrench. Even with the short wrench you will only get about a quarter turn at most. Repeat and cuss till you get it off.
- Once you have it loose it can be removed from the front. It will take some finagling to get all the bends past the turbo.
- Throw the POS on the floor and cuss the engineer that designed it.
- Install the new one
Not knowing was I was doing but having all the right tools took me about 3 hours to rebuild the fuel bowl and replace the hose. Overall I would rate it a 2/5 on difficulty and a 4/5 on PITA.
Oh, and we now have a trailer to haul the turd on.